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I work for a publishers http://tiava.in.net tiavastube After a few hours, we were among the forts on the escarpment. For centuries, this was the front line between Kandy and everyone else. I loved these forts, each slightly different. Sitawaka (1524) is the biggest and wildest, its huge ramparts enclosing a tuft of jungle; Ruwanwella now has a police station perched up in the walls; meanwhile, Hanwella, dangling over the river, has become a guesthouse. It was strange sitting up there, eating chopsey (noodles flavoured with ketchup ) and thinking of all the Europeans curled up in the soil below. Not that the birds cared. By dawn, the gardens were a tootling carnival of babblers and bulbuls.

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